Stock marquises run a 2.00:1 ratio, which covers the mainstream. The customer who wants something longer or slimmer, or a specific length to match an existing setting, needs a custom cut. Ordering a custom marquise is straightforward once you know what to specify, but it is easy to waste a cutting slot on a request that the factory cannot deliver. This is the spec sheet we send with every custom marquise order.
The three variables to specify
A custom marquise changes along three axes, and the customer should have a view on each before you place the order.
| Variable | Range | Effect |
|---|---|---|
| Length x width | e.g. 6x12, 7x14 | sets the face-up size |
| Ratio | 1.80:1 to 2.20:1 | sets the drama |
| Cut depth | standard to deep | controls bow-tie and brightness |
What is feasible
Lengths up to 16mm and ratios up to 2.20:1 are routine. A deeper pavilion reduces bow-tie on a long marquise, which is the standard fix when a customer wants the dramatic ratio without the dark center. We can also match a marquise to a specific mounting: send the setting and we cut the stone to seat it. Lead time on a custom marquise is two to three weeks, with a 50 percent deposit on order.
What is not feasible
Ratios beyond 2.20:1 start to look like a sliver, and the pavilion cannot be cut deep enough to control bow-tie at that length. The result is a dark, narrow stone that disappoints. We tell the customer up front if their requested ratio falls outside the workable band and propose the closest feasible cut rather than cutting a stone they will reject. Sizes below 4x8 are not worth custom cutting; stock stones cover that range.
Specifying for a specific setting
If the marquise is going into a mounting you already have, send the setting to the factory before cutting. The girdle thickness and the seat depth decide whether the stone sits right. A custom marquise cut to a standard girdle may sit too high or too low in a bezel, and re-cutting after the fact costs more than specifying it on the first order. Include the setting when you place the custom request.
Inspection on arrival
A custom marquise deserves the same face-up check as a stock stone, plus a bow-tie grade. Hold it at arm's length under diffuse light; the bow-tie should not be a dark band across the center. Measure the length and width against the spec. If the stone does not match the approved spec on first cutting, we recut at our cost. The customer gets a photo of the finished stone before it is mounted, so they approve the proportions before the setting work begins.
- Specify length x width, ratio and depth on the order.
- Send the mounting if the stone is cut to seat it.
- Approve the face-up photo before setting.
Communicating the wait to the customer
A two to three week lead time is a long promise to make to someone who wants a ring by a date. Set expectations on day one, tell them the stone is being cut to their spec, and send a face-up photo when it is ready. A customer who knows it is made to order waits patiently; a customer who thought it was in stock calls every three days. The photo before mounting is the single most important step, because it lets the customer approve the bow-tie level and the ratio before the stone is set. If they do not like it, we recut, and the setting work does not start on a stone they will reject.
Sample stones for custom orders
Keep one stock marquise as a display sample once you have taken a few custom orders. Customers rarely walk in knowing they want a 2.10:1 ratio; they recognize it when they see it next to a 2.00:1. The comparison on a display card closes the sale faster than describing the difference. Label the ratio on each sample, because the difference is visible but hard to name. The 50 percent deposit also smooths cash flow, since the customer pays for the rough before the bench time is spent.
Pricing a custom marquise
A custom marquise carries a 15 to 25 percent premium over a stock stone of the same face-up size, because the cutting bench is allocated and the rough is reserved. The 50 percent deposit secures that. Quote the customer a range rather than a single number, because the final proportions may shift slightly at cutting. If the stone does not meet the approved spec on first cut, we recut at our cost rather than charging again. The finished stone ships with a GRA certificate recording the custom dimensions.
Expect the custom order to take the full two to three weeks; rush cutting compromises the proportion control that makes a custom marquise worth the premium.
Set the customer's expectation to the full lead time.
Stock and custom marquises are in the loose stone catalog under Marquise Cut.