No cut gives more finger coverage per dollar than the marquise. A 6x12mm marquise reads as a two-carat-plus stone on the hand while costing less than a 8mm round. That is the whole sales pitch. It is also the cut that produces the most warranty claims, because the two pointed tips are exposed and the bow-tie on a poorly proportioned stone can be a black band across the middle. Wholesalers who understand both facts can sell marquises profitably without angry customers.
What the marquise is
The marquise is a long, narrow brilliant cut with pointed ends on both sides. Legend ties it to the court of Louis XV, who reportedly wanted a cut shaped like the mouth of the Marquise de Pompadour. Whatever the origin, the geometry is specific: a modified brilliant with a large table and a crown arranged to maximize the elongated silhouette. In moissanite, the high dispersion means a well-cut marquise throws fire from end to end.
Length-to-width ratio
The ratio decides everything.
- 1.80:1 to 1.90:1 is the classic, balanced marquise. Long enough to read, not so long that it looks like a stick.
- 1.90:1 to 2.10:1 is the dramatic, red-carpet marquise. Maximum finger coverage, but the bow-tie is harder to control.
- Below 1.70:1 starts to look like a fat oval with pinched ends; most customers will ask why it is not simply an oval.
The bow-tie, honestly
On a marquise, the bow-tie is not optional. It is a consequence of the long pavilion. The question is whether it is faint and acceptable or a dark ribbon that kills the center. At HOLYCOME we face-up grade every marquise in diffused light and reject stones where the bow-tie covers more than about a third of the center table. Buyers should ask for a top-down video held at arm's length, not a macro shot that flatters the stone. Macro hides bow-tie; distance reveals it.
Face-up size and wholesale price
| Dimensions (mm) | Ratio | Diamond equivalent | Wholesale band (USD) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4x8 | 2.00:1 | ~0.5 ct | $16 - $26 |
| 5x10 | 2.00:1 | ~1.0 ct | $32 - $52 |
| 6x12 | 2.00:1 | ~2.0 ct | $60 - $95 |
| 7x14 | 2.00:1 | ~3.0 ct | $110 - $175 |
| 8x16 | 2.00:1 | ~4.0+ ct | $180 - $280 |
Setting tips: tip protection is non-negotiable
Both pointed ends chip on impact. The setting exists first to protect them, second to hold the stone. We specify:
- A V-prong or capped prong at each tip, wrapping the point rather than sitting on it.
- Four side prongs along the shoulders, two per side, for stability.
- A slightly raised cathedral setting so the tips sit above the band and do not catch on door frames.
- Minimum girdle thickness of medium on stones 6x12 and larger.
Avoid tension settings on marquises. The pressure at the two points is exactly where the stone will crack.
Metal pairs
White gold or platinum makes the marquise look longest and brightest. Yellow gold softens the silhouette and suits customers who want a vintage, 1970s feel. A common styling trick is a marquise center flanked by two tapered baguettes in yellow gold; the baguettes echo the elongated shape without competing with the fire.
Who buys marquises
Three buyer groups. Customers with slender fingers who want maximum coverage. Customers who specifically ask for the marquise after seeing it on a public figure. And vintage-collectors, for whom the 1970s silhouette is the point. It is not the default for first-time engagement-ring buyers; those customers usually land on oval or round unless the retailer steers them.
Durability in practice
We tell retail partners openly: a marquise ring sold as a daily-wear solitaire will see more prong repair than a round. That is a setting problem, not a stone problem, and it is manageable if the setting is built correctly. Moissanite itself at 9.25 Mohs scratches fine. The failure mode is impact chipping at the tips, which good prongs prevent. Counsel the end customer to remove the ring before gym work and manual labor.
Marquise versus oval economics
Buyers sometimes ask why they should stock marquises when ovals move more. The answer is margin. A 6x12 marquise reads as a two-carat-plus stone and costs about the same wholesale as an 8x10 oval, but customers who specifically want a marquise do not compare it to ovals. That lack of direct comparison protects the retail price. Treat marquises as a specialty line rather than a volume line: keep a small float in 5x10 and 6x12, and order the longer lengths to demand.
We also counsel retailers to sell the marquise as a statement piece rather than an everyday ring. Customers who wear a marquise to a desk job that involves typing and phone work will catch the tips on keyboards; that is a use-case conversation, not a durability flaw in the stone.
Current marquise stock lives in the loose stone catalog under Marquise Cut.